Day 1. Following the Royal Route
We start our walk from Barbican – the remnant of the Medieval fortifications of Old Kraków. On the one side of the street you can see a big square (Matejko Square) with a Baroque church in the corner. It is the Florian’s Church. The city council built many churches within the walls – but this one is situated outside. It contains the first relics (of St. Florian) that were brought to Kraków. According to the legend the coffin with the relics became so heavy (when being brought to the city) that people acknowledged it as a sign and decided to found a temple in that very place. The church, not protected from the invaders with the walls, was destroyed many times – therefore its present style does not reflect the time of its foundation.
Coming back to Barbican, the round brick military fortress from the end of 15th century, one may think of its function. It was joined with the gate of the city by a passage-way (not existing anymore). Moated, with thick walls and 130 embrasures (restricted openings) – it was difficult to get into. Standing nearby Barbican you find yourself in the middle of the city park – The Planty. It was created here after 1820 – when the bigger part of fortifications was pulled down and the city council was seeking a way to beautify this abandoned place. In front of the entrance to Barbican you will see the Florian Gate. On the side of Planty it bears a white eagle (the emblem of Poland) and it is the only gate that was left untouched. It is incorporated in the city walls (they were started to be built in 1285) together with 3 towers. Unfortunately, due to the bad condition of the fortifications that influenced the decision to pull it down, we can admire only this small strip.
We enter the Old Town via the Florian Gate and find ourselves in Floriańska street. When you look back at the gate from the Old Town you will see the carving of St. Florian – as a patron of the firemen. This street leads to the Grand Square of Kraków – and is one of the most famous (and expensive) streets in the city. Each building there has its own history (as all others in the Old Town). Special amongst them is number 45 (on the left when walking from the gate to the square). On the ground floor is a popular cafe – Jama Michalika – opened in 1895. The wonderful decor is the original, colorful Art Nouveau interior – that dates back to 1908.
It was the place where Polish intelligentsia of that period met to enjoy the period of Young Poland and Bohemian atmosphere. Building number 41 (also on the left side) used to be the home of Jan Matejko – famous Polish painter of the 19th century. The last building in the street is called “Under the Negroes” – owing its name to the statue of two black men carrying the basket full of fruits. The building used to house a famous pharmacy that imported oriental fruits and sold them there.
Here we are on the Main Square (known as the Rynek) marked out in 1257 (when Kraków got its municipal rights). It is the biggest Medieval square in Europe (each side is almost 200 metres long). The most astonishing building that you will encounter, when coming out from Floriańska street, is St. Mary’s church (by the Poles called: Mariacki). Its Gothic architecture comes from the 14th century. Outside it reveals 2 towers of unequal height. The watch-tower is the higher one and from it you can hear a bugle-call being played every hour on the hour. The call is very recognisable as Polish Cracovian sound – called Hejnał Mariacki. It ends abruptly and commemorates the sound played since Medieval Ages by the bugler to announce the opening and closing of the city gates as well as a fire or enemy approach. According to legend, when the Tatars were invading Kraków in 1241, the bugler’s throat – while warning the citizens – was pierced with an arrow. Now, unfinished “hejnał” is played every hour four times – to each side of the world. The higher tower is a bell-tower (housing 5 bells). Another legend connected with St. Mary’s church explains why the towers are not equal. The 2 brothers who were building them got into competition. One of them, seeing that his tower was much lower, stabbed his brother out of jealousy, after which out of sorrow he committed suicide jumping from the church tower. You can visit the watch-tower between 1st May and 31st August on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays (9.00-11.30 am and 1.00-5.30 pm). The entrance is situated on the side of Floriańska street. Visitors are let in every 20 minutes in groups of 10. Inside, the church is beautifully embellished. It contains masterpieces of art, among them: a Medieval altarpiece – the work of Veit Stoss – the biggest altar of this period. It depicts the life of Saint Mary. When opened, one can admire the main scene depicting Saint Mary’s Falling Asleep in presence of Apostles, the Assumption and Coronation (above). The open wings show the scenes from life of Saint Mary and the closed wings of the cabinet depict Mary’s Suffering. Other than this you will be amazed by the beautiful decoration of the church (most of it is the work of Jan Matejko). Tourists may visit the church everyday but only when services are not in progress. On weekdays between 11.30 am and 6 pm (the solemn opening of the altar takes place at 11.50 am). On Sundays and church holidays one can visit the church after the Sunday services – that is from about 2 pm to 6 pm. The part of the church open to tourists is the half of the basilica, including the chancel and the altar. The entrance is from the small square that used to be the cemetery (on the right side when looking on the facade of the basilica). A symbolic entrance fee is charged.
The other part of the church (reached via the main entrance from the Old Town Square) is available for prayers and confession. It is open everyday and does not require any payment.
Near the entrance for tourists to the Mariacki church there is situated St. Barbara’s church – a small, brick Medieval shrine – the outside is Gothic and the inside boasts Baroque design. Near its front door you can admire a group of stone sculptures showing Jesus Christ during the vigil of his Passion.
On this side of the Market Square you can see a monument dedicated to Adam Mickiewicz – Poland’s greatest poet of Romanticism. The monument became the meeting point for Cracovians and the place is gently called by them “pod Adasiem” (by Andy). Almost opposite the monument (on the corner of Sienna street – with the address Rynek Główny 6) there is one of the most famous restaurants in the city, called “Szara” (open from 11 am to 11 pm). Apart from excellent quality of meals, it boasts original, gothic vaulting. It is recommended to make table reservations. You can either call: 0048 12 421 66 69 or email: restauracja@szara.pl
In the same part of the Market Square there is a small 11th century church of Saint Adalbert’s (Polish version of the name: Wojciech). Its Romanesque form is barely noticeable because of Baroque renovation. The archeological researches (especially of preserved underground works) proved, however, that it is one of the oldest churches of Kraków.
All the burgher houses situated on the Main Market have their own history. They are worth attention especially for their architecture.
In the very middle of the Market you can see a long building, which is the Cloth Hall (in Polish: Sukiennice). This area used to be full of stalls and people selling or exchanging their (mainly textile) goods. At first open place was roofed in the 13th century and in 1555 the building of Cloth Hall was rebuilt in Renaissance style. Especially interesting is the ornate roof with grotesque masks (called: maszkarony) made by Santi Gucci. The Cloth Hall is still a kind of shopping mall – catering mainly to tourists. One can purchase there various hand-made goods, wooden sculptures and amber jewellery as well as folk styled clothing. Since 1880 the National Museum of Kraków is placed upstairs of Sukiennice (you can admire there works of 19th century Polish painters – among them Jan Matejko). You can also have a coffee in one of the cafes situated in the arcades of the Cloth Hall (that are open to the Main Square-Rynek)– one of the most famous is Noworolski’s (open since 1910 and presenting Art Nouveau interior design).
The other half of the Main Market is dominated by 13th century Town Hall Tower (Ratusz) – in Gothic style. The Town Hall itself was pulled down in the 19th century and the cellars under its tower contained a torture chamber and popular beerhouse (the cellars have been turned into the theatre and cafe). You can climb the stairs of the tower for a small entrance fee. Before leaving the Main Market Square look at building number 15 which is the famous and oldest Kraków’s restaurant called “Wierzynek”. Its history dates back to 1364, when king Casimir the Great invited the monarchs from all over Europe. Merchant called Mikołaj Wierzynek treated them to the feast that lasted 21 days and nights. You can make reservations by calling 0048 12 424 96 00 or you can send an email to: rezerwacja@wierzynek.com.pl
From the square we enter the Grodzka street. As you get to the small crossroad, you can admire there 2 temples from 13th century. The one on the left is the Basilica of the Holy Trinity, especially known for its interesting cloister adjoining the Dominican Monastery (therefore very often described as Dominicans’ church). On the right, there is the Basilica of Saint Francis’. Inside you can find splendid modernist stained-glass windows and floral frescoes, especially admired by visitors. The church is opposite the Bishop’s House where Karol Wojtyła (the Pope John Paul II) had his seat as a bishop of Kraków. The church is also next to the Renaissance Wielkopolskich Palace of 1560, which has been the city hall since 1865. Further on, towards Wawel castle, there are 2 other temples situated in Grodzka street. The baroque church of St. Peter and Paul’s resembles Rome’s del Gesu. Its front reveals ornate stone sculptures of the 12 Apostles (these are, however, replicas of the original ones). Inside, there is a crypt with the sarcophagus of Piotr Skarga (17th century Jesuit preacher).
The neighbouring 11th century church of St. Andrew’s boasts Romanesque architecture outside (the interior design is Baroque). From the small square (opposite St. Peter and Paul’s) you can turn into Kanonicza – thought by some one of the finest street ever. It is picturesque (lying at the foot of Wawel) and lined with mostly Renaissance houses (with beautiful, original portals). At the end of Kanonicza street lies the main entrance to Wawel Castle (with the ticket office on the way). The castle is open every day from 6 am till nightfall. However, at any time the number of visitors is restricted therefore it is better to visit in the morning. There are free tickets for some exhibitions: on Mondays (01.04-31.10) or Sundays (01.11-31.03). All the exhibitions are closed on the 1st of January, Saturday and Sunday during Easter, 1st and 11th of November and 24th, 25th and 31st of December. When entering the Wawel Hill you will first see the Cathedral on your right. You can visit it free of charge. Especially worth seeing are a silver coffin with the relics of St. Stanislaus’ (in front of the entrance) and sarcophaguses of Polish rulers (of various styles and periods). Amongst 18 chapels (on both sides of the main nave) you will find one called “pearl of the Renaissance” (opposite the sarcophagus of Queen Jadwiga), which was built by Bartolomeo Berrecci of Florence during 1519-1533 for king Sigismund I the Old and his family as a mausoleum. From outside, the Sigismund Chapel (the official name) is roofed with a gold-plated dome. If you wish to enter the tombs (where the Royal Families and Polish heroes are buried) or climb up the tower with the enormous Sigismund Bell (both accessible from the inside of Cathedral) – you must purchase a ticket (available outside the cathedral – in front of the main entrance to the temple): Monday-Saturday 9 am – 3 pm, Sundays and Holidays 12.30 pm – 4 pm.
When turning left from the main entrance of the cathedral, you will see an open space with a green area at centre. To the left is the entrance gate to the castle. Inside you pass through a beautiful Renaissance courtyard. The entrance to this part of the castle is free (there is no access to the arcaded courtyard within half an hour of closing time). The tours to various parts of Wawel (like for example: Royal Chambers, Royal Private Apartments, Crown Treasury and Armoury or others) start from the entrances situated inside the courtyard. It is also worth mentioning that in the other part of the Wawel Hill there is the entrance to the cave – called the Dragon’s Cave (Smocza Jama). The legend speaks of the monster (dragon) living there, that was defeated by a cunning shoemaker. At the foot of Wawel Hill (on the Vistula riverside) there is a metal statue of the legendary dragon – that still from time to time breathes fire.
